Tunisia
Sands of Time: Exploring Tunisia’s Ancient Ruins and Modern Marvels
Last winter was extremely long and cold, and despite the already advanced spring, we could not wait for the much-desired warmth of the Sun. Thoughts impatiently and inevitably lead us to sandy beaches and summer joys. But we believe you have all heard the old saying – If the mountain will not come to Muhammad, then Muhammad must go to the mountain.
Why not treat yourself to the Sun’s rays at any time of the year? It is the perfect time to visit the southern regions of the Earth. A brief overview of the offers of travel agencies catches our eye at one exotic destination, at an even more attractive price, Tunisia.
At the speed of light, we packed our travel bags, and the very next moment, we were on our way to warmer regions. Tunisia is located in the very north of Africa, bordered on the west by Algeria (965 km) and on the southeast by Libya (459 km), with intensely hot summers and moderately mild winters. The climate is diverse, from the pleasant Mediterranean to the less pleasant Saharan.
These different environmental and climatic characteristics created fundamental economic and cultural differences between the fertile and productive plains in the north and the arid, more impoverished regions of the central and southern parts of the country. This richness of diversity attracts many tourists to this country, which is sunbathed for up to 3,000 hours a year.
Our destination is Djerba island, one of the principal centers of tourism in Tunisia. Here, the tourist industry has been developing rapidly since 1960, which gives the island connotations of modernity, hospitality, and exclusivity, making it an ideal destination for an unforgettable vacation.
As soon as you step on Tunisian soil, you realize that you are in a distinctive world, in numerous ways different from ours. Since Tunisia offers countless fascinating locations that would not be possible to visit without a car, we decided to rent it, which was a great idea. To our delight, the car was, unlike most of Tunisia’s fleet, in incomparably better and newer condition.
Our destination is Djerba island, one of the leading tourism centers in Tunisia. The tourist industry here has been developing rapidly since 1960, which gives the island connotations of modernity, hospitality, and exclusivity, making it an ideal destination for an unforgettable vacation. It is a popular destination for French, Italians, and increasingly for Slovenians and Croats.
Even though the island is becoming more modern, it’s still one of the few places where the Berber language is still spoken. Our hotel is located in the tourist zone in the northwest of the island, near the largest city and administrative center, Houmt Souk. Houmt Souk in translation means “market area” and is the only city with countless shops, markets, and fairs. If you’re interested in seeing the diversity of offerings on the island, it’s definitely worth a visit.
One of the most significant offerings is spices, typical for this area, such as mint, anise, and cumin, which abundantly predominate in Tunisian and Berber cuisine. With its 28 km long and 26.5 km wide, the island is precisely ethnically, culturally, and artistically determined. Although small in size, over 200 mosques have been built on it. Surprised by the numerous mosques, which we met at every step, we came across the only church (in Houmt Souk) and a synagogue on the island (in Hara Sghira).
Near the tourist resort of Midoun is located Parc Djerba Explore, a tourist complex dedicated to cultural heritage and Islamic art. What impressed us the most within this complex is the largest crocodile farm in the Mediterranean, which has about 400 specimens of large and small predators.
Near the tourist resort of Midoun is located Park Djerba Explore, a tourist complex dedicated to cultural heritage and Islamic art. What impressed us the most within this complex is the largest crocodile farm in the Mediterranean, which has about 400 specimens of large and small predators.
We visited them just in time for lunch, an impressive spectacle for all visitors. When you experience with the “naked” eyes this scene of the breaking of flesh and bones under the sharp teeth in those enormous jaws, only then do you realize the strength of this powerful animal. Although the impressive scenes, you don’t need to worry. They were not as bloody as the ones from the cult movie “Friday the 13th”. Not to forget to mention, all the visitors survived.
In search of amusing attractions, we arrive in Guellala, the capital of pottery, where about 100 families practice this craft. We enter one of the “shops” where terracotta products are made, and through a conversation with the owner, we learn that techniques and production methods are the same today as they used once to be.
Shops are full of diverse, colorful items, from plates, jugs, and bowls to amphorae. But the product that is the most exported is the so-called gargoulette, actually an amphora for catching octopuses, which are as numerous in island waters as lobsters. Next to the store are storage rooms, recesses in the ground where terracotta is dried, and nearby also are ovens for baking products, which, with their specific form, are reminiscent of modern abstract art.
In the southern part of the island, you can find the charming fishing towns of Ajim and El Kantara. These towns serve as the connection between the island and mainland Tunisia. El Kantara is reached via a road that crosses an old Roman embankment, while Ajim is accessible only by ferry. The ferry ride is extremely affordable, costing only 800 milimes (approximately 0.40 cents) per car. Driving on Tunisian roads outside major cities, we concluded there are more “gas stations” per square kilometer in Tunisia than in any well-developed country.
Although these “gas stations” do not have a solid roof like standard gas stations, they offer the same products as the largest known distributors. You won’t find classic cash registers here to pay for your fuel, but you will find cheerful and colorful canisters waiting for you. Even if you run out of fuel in the dark of night, don’t worry – the Tunisians will be happy to serve you. They sell smuggled fuel from Libya, but there is no need to fear because the government turns a blind eye to illegal petroleum.
If you are a fan of the movie “Star Wars” then Tunisia as a destination is the right choice for you. Moon landscapes and attractive architectures have created an ideal location for filming numerous scenes of the film. Some of these locations can still be seen today…
In everyday life, when buying meat, we often ask ourselves how fresh it is and whether it was stored well enough. In Tunisia, any doubt falls away in the blink of an eye. If you come across a butcher shop, a small “two-by-two” concrete object, the first thing you’ll notice is a few sheep tied to a rope trying to eat up those few blades of dry grass growing nearby.
If you look around, you also will notice, at the entrance of the building, hung animal skins drying, and in an instant, everything becomes clear. Meat is very fresh, in fact, still warm and alive. You only need the courage to point the finger at the little creature, and the next moment, it goes into treatment. Of course, for “some” reason, we were not ready to taste the offer. Furthermore, we didn’t care about the meat at all.
If you are a fan of the movie “Star Wars” then Tunisia as a destination is the right choice for you. Moon landscapes and attractive architecture have created an ideal location for filming numerous film scenes. Some of these locations can still be seen today, such as the desert areas right to the salt lake Chott el-Jerid, Ksar Hadada on the road from Matmata to Tataouine, and Ajim on Djerba.
As we move towards the central part of mainland Tunisia, we start to notice that we are getting closer to the desert region. Our journey takes us to the dry and salty lake Chott el-Jerid, which lies between Douz and Tozeur.
During the rainy seasons, the lake fills up with water and transforms into a vast inland sea. However, as spring approaches, the water starts to evaporate due to the influence of the Sun, leaving behind salt deposits on the desert soil. In this region, you can find unique souvenirs known as Desert roses, which are formed naturally over time due to changing weather conditions.
Desert roses are unique formations made of sand and salt crystals. They can be found a few meters beneath the surface of Saharan sand. To acquire these souvenirs, you won’t need to dig with a shovel or work hard in the heat because they are available for purchase at very affordable prices in almost every store, including stands in the middle of the desert. Prices range from 2 to 4 Tunisian dinars (approximately 1 to 2 euros), depending on the size of the rose.
Douz is the city that marks the start of the Sahara, earning it the name “the doorway of the Sahara.” You’ll be amazed by the countless date palms and fruit trees grown exclusively for export. For those seeking adventure, there’s an opportunity to ride camels while sporting authentic Bedouin attire.
Our next destination is Ksar Ghilane, an oasis that houses about 60 spacious and air-conditioned tents equipped with a bathroom. There is also a restaurant, bar, swimming pool, all comforts except television and telephone.
We want to visit the Sahara, but one usually goes to the desert in vehicles customized to desert conditions. We are a bit apprehensive about whether our car will be able to handle the roads, but we are determined to go anyway. Namely, a route passes between dunes, which are constantly moving due to the winds. As a result, the road sometimes disappears. However, the Tunisians came up with the idea of placing protections on the edges of the dunes by planting palm branches that prevent them from moving.
Our next destination is Ksar Ghilane, an oasis that houses around 60 spacious and air-conditioned tents equipped with a bathroom. There is also a restaurant, bar, swimming pool, all comforts except television and telephone. Don’t worry though, as mobile devices work perfectly fine here. You can ride camels, watch the sunset at dusk, and enjoy dining in the moonlight surrounded by dunes, an experience that will stay with you forever.
After exploring the Bedouin way of life, we set out for new adventures, this time exploring the lives of nomads and barbers. The southern region of Tunisia is abundant in ksars, which means fortress, featuring an attractive architectural style. These ksars consist of multiple independent buildings with several rooms and cylindrical structures called ghorfas. Originally, they were primarily used for storing food products, providing protection from both heat and muggers. Nowadays, most of these ksars have been transformed into hotels, serving as a popular destination for campers traveling from all over Europe. The barbers also stand out with their unique architecture. The Matmata area is home to troglodyte houses excavated in clay and sand, giving them a cave-like appearance.
If you find yourself in front of the door or the entrance of one of the houses, and if you see a blue handprint above the doorway, it means that you are welcome in that house. You will be greeted by friendly hosts who will take you through a tunnel, dug in the rock, to the yard (about 15 meters in diameter) that forms the center of the house. Around the yard are arranged rooms for different purposes. In addition to showing you their home, they will offer you home-baked bread, as well as olive oil, which they have in abundance since Tunisia is full of endless olive groves that have no end in sight even after 2 hours of driving. It is customary to pay the host 5 Tunisian dinars for such a visit, which is a little less than 3 euros.
Tired of wandering through the vastness of Tunisia for several days, we decide on a relaxing massage, which, like other cosmetic services, is offered at almost every step at an affordable price, all to make the tourist’s stay as beautiful and pleasant as possible. Immersed in this cheerfully colored, picturesque world, mixed with sounds, voices, and intense aromas, we prepare bags to return home with a sense of satisfaction and uplifted with new experiences.
TEXT – Vesna Dzuverovich
PHOTO – Robert Blaskovich
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