So we sat on the terrace on the restaurant’s first floor opposite the medina entrance and, barely taking off the shoulder several tons of heavy photographic equipment, ordered a mint tea. And then it started! 

In moments, while the first stalls began to turn on the lighting, mainly in the form of a series of ordinary bulbs hanged on the wire, they would immediately be wrapped in the smoke of the grills they illuminate. Tables overloaded with food seemed to sprout out of nowhere. After ten, fifteen minutes, while Marrakech slowly plunged into a warm evening, the previous scene became unrecognizable. 

Everything has received a completely different dimension, from the snake tamers, which a moment ago were unsuccessfully trying to wrap their drugged six-foot pets around my neck, and the sellers of water in vivid costumes. Also, belly dancers in harem pants, surrounded by the hordes of guards who make sure that every triggered photo from the rows of numerous viewers immediately gets charged. And about musicians on traditional instruments, whose music for lengthy listening is devastating for every little more refined western ear, we do not even mention. The barely unbelievable transformation from this former prosaic bus station in place from Oriental fairy tale, full of exotic smells and sounds!

There are remarkably diverse fates of Northern African countries in their postcolonial period. Algeria, a country that lies between the two most liberal Muslim African States due to the radical Islamism that dominates the last decades, is dangerous and inadvisable to foreigners. Gaddafi’s Libya has only recently opened up for foreign tourists in recent years. Tunisia has been most advanced thanks primarily to Habib Bourghibi, a long-standing pro-Western oriented president who was forced to step down from power after he tried to radically cut the influence of religion on politics with reforms, which transformed this former French colony. 

Hassan II, long-standing (ruled 38 years) Moroccan Sovereign, has balanced more or less successful between the pro-Western orientation and Islamism, even though human rights for his reigns existed only on paper. The neighboring states resented his connection with Israel and America. He set the foundations of the market economy and introduced a multi-party, only in North Africa countries, albeit more or less of a formal character. He also survived two assassins, one of which is when he was intercepted during a flight in a Presidential Boeing 727 by five fighters which pilots were renegades of his aviation. The coup in the air failed, so it was the last flight in the life of the five in question.

The most magnificent example of Muslim architecture in Morocco is a fascinating mosque in Casablanca named Hassan II after his death. By size, it is in fifth place in the Islamic world, just behind the mosques in Mecca and Medina. It has the tallest minaret in the world. And is built on the coast.

While watching from the deck of a cruise ship, it looks like a ship. Six thousand top Moroccan artists and artisans have been working on its decoration using the highest quality materials. Since this is one of the few mosques several times a day I can visit non-Muslims, I enjoyed passing through enormous spaces where the religious ceremonies sometimes expensive up to 105,000 (not a mistake) of the believer.

Since this is one of the few mosques which several times a day can also visit non-Muslims, I enjoyed passing the vast spaces, which, during religious ceremonies, sometimes gather up to 105,000 (not a mistake) worshippers. And you should see a complex of underground pools it has which, like the entire interior of the mosque, is made of marble! 

The residents of Morocco are the native Berbers that newcomers, Arabs, after the 7th century converted to the Muslim religion. But today, both live in harmony, and the few mullahs are considered to be direct descendants of the prophet Muhammad. It is a very influential and numerically small Jewish community with a thousand-year tradition. 

A classic tour of the royal cities also took us to the one that caught our attention the most as we read about and looked at Morocco photos. And indeed, Fez, the former capital, the Muslim holy city, the city with the oldest university in the world, will not disappoint you. One of his two medinas is under UNESCO protection, and today considered the utmost urban space in the world without the presence of a vehicle.

The advice we can give to curious travelers and tourists is quite simple and of paramount importance: never enter this medina alone, even during the day (Medina Fes El Bali has more than 200,000 inhabitants). Except, of course, if you speak and read Arabic.

Street names and all other inscriptions are exclusively in Arabic. The likelihood of finding the exit from that giant maze of the alley almost does not exist! Let a reliable guide lead you to the famous balcony, where you can see the square with the enormous color reservoirs in which the skin is dyed (one of the most recognizable motives in Morocco’s photographs). 

And let him then guide you through the parts of the medina which are today the same as five hundred and more years ago (the only exception is that electricity has been introduced). In both cases, you will feel a scent that is probably nowhere else in the world at that intensity. The first scent is from leather and color. The other is the absence of any sewerage system, except for the medieval – the streets!

And while we are at with valuable advice, the chance of traveling to Morocco and staying healthy stomach if you eat Moroccan food is minimal! That will confirm every experienced tourist guide in the country. Their spices are a bit too strong for our European nutrition habits. Therefore, at least for the first few days, be careful.

In every better hotel, you will find daily a few dishes prepared in a European way, such as pizza or spaghetti. And everyone knows you should drink only purchased bottled water, preferably in a glass (sometimes it is possible to find the French water Evian). 

Today’s Moroccan King Muhammad IV has stated that he will not allow a single grain of sand to be taken away from that part of his beloved kingdom. But that accessible part of that Mediterranean-oceanic state on the western edge of the Sahara (the Maghreb means “where the sun sets”) is so enchanting and fascinating that you must give yourself ten days of wandering Morocco at least once in your life. You can choose from countless magical locations, wander the kasbahs on the high slopes of the Atlas Mountains. 

In winter, dress well and, if you ski, be sure to bring your ski equipment because you may find half a meter of snow, the highest peak in Morocco is more than 4000 m. You can sleep in a tent next to nomads in Saharan oases or walk the sandy beaches around Casablanca bathed in ocean aerosol from the wind and waves. You can spend afternoons in a warm hammam or, with the inevitable mint tea, indulge in the bustle of crowded medina and street theater called a bargain.