Graz – City of design
Graz is located about 190 km from Zagreb, which is only a two and a half hours drive away. In terms of size, it is the second largest city in Austria after Vienna. It is the capital of the Styria province and is home to around 250,000 inhabitants, including about 5,000 Croats. The name “Graz” is derived from the Slavic word “Gradec,” meaning a small castle.
This city is often and unreasonably classified as a shopping destination but offers much more. Graz is a city rich in history that embraces modernity. To fully experience the city, plan to spend at least 3 to 4 days there. If you haven’t visited before, the first starting point should be the tourist information office – Graz Tourismus Information, in the city center on Herrengasse. There, you can find various catalogs in various languages to help you make the most of your visit.
Herrengasse is mainly a pedestrian zone by which operate only trams and borders the old town. The street is plenty of bars and patisseries, which is why every shop window attracts your attention.
In addition to offering the city’s attractions, the tourist office provides information about the surrounding areas. Near the tourist office is the entrance to the courtyard of the Provincial Parliament building. If you peek into this attractive courtyard filled with arcades, considered a masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance, you will not be disappointed.
Herrengasse is mainly a pedestrian zone that operates only trams and borders the old town. The street has plenty of bars and patisseries. Every shop window attracts your attention. If you visit Graz during the summer, treat yourself to a delicious scoop of ice cream. Although it may be a bit more expensive, the scoops are quite generous, so one will be sufficient. If you’re not a fan of ice cream, then you will surely be delighted to taste one of the traditional Austrian desserts.
Heading north will lead you to the main square – Hauptplatz. The Rathaus Town Hall rises on it, and near it is a fountain dedicated to the Styrian prince Archduke Johann. Four women surround him, representing the rivers Mur, Danube, Enns, and Sann.
If you have successfully resisted the many typical dishes and desserts on display, you could fall now for the smell of sausages that spreads through the square and stuns you. There are numerous stalls in the square, and most offer fast food. The square is the intersection of Herrengasse, Sporgasse, Schmiedgasse, Murgasse, and Sackstrasse and is an excellent starting point for exploring the old historic center of Graz.
So far, you may have noticed buildings of different artistic styles and from various historical periods. Despite so much diversity, everything fits well. Thanks to that, in 1999, the historical core was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
If you turn right from the square, you will reach small streets with various restaurants, bars, and branded boutiques. This part of the neighborhood, around Mehlplatz and Färberplatz squares, is popularly called the Bermuda Triangle because, especially in the evening, a large number of the population is here “lost” for hours.
If you turn right from the square, you will reach small streets with restaurants, bars, and branded boutiques. This part around Mehlplatz and Färberplatz squares is popularly called the Bermuda Triangle. Numerous people “get lost” for hours here, especially in the evening.
To the right of Mehlplatz is Glockenspielplatz, a small square that is especially interesting at 11 a.m., 3 p.m., and 6 p.m. At those times, two window wings open on the bell tower, and a wooden couple in folk costumes emerges and starts dancing to the sounds of bells. It is a unique attraction that draws tourists and locals also to stop and enjoy the scene.
After exploring the historical center, head north along Sackstrasse, known for its art and antique shops, nicknamed the artistic mile. There, you will find the department store Kastner & Öhler.
Even if you had not planned to shop, it’s worth exploring its interior, which is quite glamorous. Once inside, you will be welcomed by the sounds of a live piano. If looking around, you will notice a gentleman in a suit sitting at the piano. His virtuosity creates a pleasant atmosphere for customers.
The range of assortment is extensive but leaves the impression that it is mainly for those with a slightly deeper pocket. The ground floor is designed for a younger crowd, focusing on wood and metal in the interior, accompanied by music from a DJ.
The store spans several floors, with an open space in the central area to keep track of events on all levels. On the top floor is a restaurant with a stunning view of the city, especially the many red roofs of the city center.
In the central part of the river, you can find an artificial shell-shaped island called Murinsel. The island is floating and is connected to the shores by two bridges. It was created at the time of the proclamation of Graz as the capital of European culture in 2003 and designed by the New York artist Vito Acconci.
In the continuation of Sackstrasse, you will come across an intersection where both the left and the right side offer different attractions. The Mura River flows on the left, and in the central part of the river, you can find an artificial shell-shaped island called Murinsel. This floating island is connected to the shores by two bridges. It was created at the time of the proclamation of Graz as the capital of European culture in 2003 and designed by the New York artist Vito Acconci. It has a theater, a café, and a children’s playground, so it is ideal for family gatherings. And then you begin to discover that Graz emits not only history but also modernity.
On the opposite side of the coast, you will notice the Kunsthaus, the art house of Graz, which was also created in 2003. Due to its unusual exterior shape, the luminous facade of acrylic glass, and roof tentacles that defy the surrounding baroque environment and red roofs, it affectionately is known – as the Friendly Alien. The facade at the rear is integrated next to the 1847 house, which makes it more fascinating.
If you go over the Mura at the junction mentioned earlier, you will be heading towards the hill known as Schlossberg. There are several ways to reach the top. From Schlossbergplatz, you can climb the stone steps or opt for a glass elevator in the heart of the hill. This elevator is a kind of attraction since, while ascending, you are surrounded by a rock. Another option is to take an old funicular, which has been navigating steep inclines for over 100 years. The lower station of the funicular is approximately 200 meters away from Schlossbergplatz. If none of these options appeal to you, you can take the road to the top, but on the other side of the hill, with access through Sporgasse via Karmeliterplatz.
At the top is the Uhrturm clock tower, a famous city’s symbol. It is unique because the small hand indicates minutes, while the big hand shows hours. This might lead you to believe the clock is inaccurate if you do not know about it. Below the tower is a garden particularly delightful in season when nature is in full bloom. Apart from tourists, the hill is visited by many citizens as it provides a small oasis of peace in the city center and is easily accessible. It is perfect for excursions, enjoying romantic parks, restaurant terraces, or meditating on a bench by the trail.
From the hill’s top, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire city and the surrounding hills. A perfect experience is the view of the town at night, bathed in light. During the summer, you can find concert performances on the stage housed in a building that once served as a warehouse and as dormitories for prisoners. Moreover, there is a hall underneath the hill, accessible through an underground corridor system. We conclude the Austrians’ knack for making the most of every space available.
One of the most valuable monuments of Austrian cultural heritage is the Eggenberg castle (Schloss Eggenberg), located at the very end of the western part of the city in the Eggenberg district, in the middle of a beautiful green space.
Towards the east, on the other side of the hill, is a large green area. There is a connected city park and burg garden. By the way, Graz is rich in parks that residents like to visit. People spend their free time doing various sports activities.
You will notice a lot of bike paths in the city center. Be careful not to walk on them for safety. Cyclists can be fast, so your obstruction could make them angry. In the southern part of the park is located the Opera House, which in terms of size is just behind the one in Vienna. You can also reach it through Herrengasse heading south, and at the end of the street, turn left into Opernring. Interestingly, in front of such a historical and traditional building rises a very modern steel sculpture called the Sword of the Light, which is very well visible from Schlossberg.
Just behind the Opera House, on the Kaiser-Josef-Platz, is the largest market in Graz. Visiting the markets is a unique experience for us because they reflect the gastronomic culture of each city. When it comes to Graz, it is indeed unique and was confirmed in 2008 when he took the title City of Culinary Delights. Graz is loyal to local products. You will meet local farmers who sell their products at the market.
After visiting the market, we felt a sudden emptiness in our stomachs, which we were unaware of before. Restaurant prices are, we would say, quite common in our European region. For the usual meat meal with a side dish, you will spend around 11-12 euros, and specialties from 18 euros up. But you can also find cheaper restaurants, like Zu Den 3 Goldenen Kugeln. It is a restaurant chain where you can get two burgers for lunch with a side dish and dessert for only 5.30 euros. The menu is rich, the portions considerable, and the prices affordable for everyone’s pocket. Of course, we can’t talk about some specialties here, but it can still satisfy the hunger caused by a full-day sightseeing.
We must also mention the most popular drink in Austria. In the Puntigam district, the southern part is a brewery with a long tradition dating back to 1478. There is a production of the Puntigamer beer, which holds one of the leading positions on the Austrian beer scene. If you ever desire to visit a brewery, you can do so here. Prior notice is necessary for sightseeing, and the ticket price for adults is 4 euros, while for pupils and students 2 euros. The factory is not hard to find since the complex is quite large, and when you are close enough, you will feel the smell of the hops in the air.
There is one aspect that will delight some tourists, primarily men. In Graz is a decent selection of erotic clubs (more precisely, brothels) that are open from 0 to 24 hours. They are in visible places, even in the city center. Those looking for this type of entertainment will be happy to hear the prices seem very affordable. According to the price lists, you can watch an erotic movie or an erotic dance of girls for only a few euros. Some girls are also available for real action, for which you will pay about 50 euros. Since clubs are legal, and girls undergo regular medical checkups, you do not need to fear infectious and other diseases.
But let’s get back to a usual city tour. One of the most valuable monuments of Austrian cultural heritage is the Eggenberg Castle (Schloss Eggenberg). It is located at the end of the western part of the Eggenberg district, in the middle of a beautiful green space. Due to its importance, the castle was included in the UNESCO list of protected cultural heritage sites in 2010. Inside the castle are an Old Gallery and a numismatic cabinet. The ticket price for adults is 8 euros, and for children under six, it is free. The castle was built entirely in logical-mathematical harmony with the Universe. It has four towers that symbolize the seasons, twelve doors representing the months, and 365 windows of the days.
Near the castle is the planet park, for the visit of which it is necessary to set aside 2 euros. If you move around the city by public transport, you can reach the castle from the center (from the main square) by tram number 1. For easy navigation by public transport, it is best to find information on the website www.holding-graz.at. There you will find detailed information on all bus and tram lines, and at the same time, you can find out ticket prices and the possibilities of buying cheaper transport packages.
If you come to Graz with your transport, you will surely be interested in where to park, especially in the city center. Parking is charged every day of the week except Sunday. In the center is a blue zone with a restriction. Maximum stay in the parking lot is 3 hours, and in some zones such as parking at the main station Europaplatz, only 1 hour. Graz has the possibility of free parking or stopping for a maximum of 10 minutes. Parking in an open parking lot for half an hour is 60 cents. The parking garages are more expensive and you will pay up to 4 euros for 1 hour. The most affordable is the garage under the Kunsthaus-Friendly Alien Museum, where an hour is 1.80 euros.
When you get tired of exploring, you can use some of your time to relax, and the Bad Eggenberg Center is ideal. It is a large complex consisting of a spa wellness center on two floors, swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), a center for physical therapy, and a spa garden of 1,000 m2. With massages, beauty treatments, or just swimming, relaxation is guaranteed.
Nicely rested, you are ready for shopping. The best-branded clothing in the city center is in Stempfergasse, accessible from Herrengasse. Apart from the shops, the area is also known for being the former home of Johannes Kepler, a German astronomer and physicist. You can also find the irresistible Frankowitsch patisserie with its delicious delicacies.
Some shops are also located on Herrengasse towards Jakominiplatz. In and around Graz are several large shopping malls where you could get lost for hours. Shopping Nord is to the north of the city, Citypark (with over 100 shops) in the district of Gries, and Murpark in the southeast region of Libenau. The Center West and Ikea are located in the southwest district of Strassgang very close to another famous furniture store, Kika.
The largest shopping center is Seiersberg, located in the southwestern part next to the motorway. It offers over 200 shops, 27 cafes, and restaurants. Due to its proportions, it is also considered the best shopping center in southern Austria. When you enter you will feel like you are in a separate city. So plenty of shops, and great offers. No matter how much you walk, the shopping center has no end in sight.
If you reach Seiersberg, it would be a shame not to proceed to Lake Schwarzlsee, which stretches parallel to Graz Airport. You will enjoy a walk along the lake or lounge on the surrounding lawns.
We recommend you visit the nearby unusual park of sculptures and artists from various parts of the Earth. You will see a balloon that inflates and empties with a sound background, a figure of aircraft parts, a concrete ship, and many other astonishing and unusual designs. The younger ones, also those a bit older, can try their abilities at driving on a covered karting track near the park.
As far as hotel accommodation is concerned, the more or less common rule applies. In the city center there usually are better and more expensive hotels. Those located along the Mura River are particularly expensive. The cheaper accommodation is in a hotel next to the train station. The most affordable ones are located further from the city center, especially on its extreme borders.
Graz is a city that will continuously surprise you because it offers so much diversity in such a small space. There is no need to search for culture, delicacies, or entertainment because they will find you at almost every step. After all that we have seen, all we can do is agree with the note we read in an informative catalog: A short flirtation with Graz can smoothly turn into a long-term relationship.
TEXT: Vesna Dzuverovich PHOTO: Robert Blaskovich
