Cardiff
Croeso, mwynhewch eich arhosiad!
Last summer, in preparation for journalistic duties in the southern part of England (the Goodwood Festival of Speed), we came up with the idea to take a few days off and spend them in one of the most beautiful parts of the UK – a unique Wales, the homeland of Catherine Zeta-Jones.
The first difference you discover at the entrance of this Celtic region is signposts on the road. Suddenly, they become strange and different from the ones you used to see in England. They are bilingual. One is, of course, English, while the other is Welsh.
And as much as we tried to read the inscription in Welsh, we could not help but break the tongue while pronouncing those words. There is no similarity with English. The first thought that comes to mind is that these signs were printed by a child, randomly banging on the keyboard.
Welsh, also known as the Paradise language, is one of the oldest languages in Europe still in use. Welsh-speaking communities exist also in Australia, England, the United States, Sweden, and Argentina. Language is relatively reminiscent of the northern Nordic languages. In any case, it is barely pronounceable if you are not an expert in the basics of Welsh. Well, how would Welsh say: Croeso, mwynhewch eich arhosiad! (Welcome, enjoy your stay!)
We settled in Cardiff, one of the youngest capitals of Europe. It became a city in 1905 and the capital of Wales only in 1955. Despite its young history, Cardiff today has a population of around 320,000 and is continuously changing.
We would say for the better, all thanks to significant financial investments in the reconstruction of the coastal area and the development of the new Wales Millennium Center. Also, they invest a lot in education and educational institutions so they can boast of about 60,000 undergraduate, 12,000 postgraduate, and as many as 6,000 international students from over 100 countries.
Out of 9,000 academic staff employed, more than 5,000 are focused on education or research. Thanks to these numbers, the University of Cardiff is on the list of the 100 best universities in the world. So, if you need an expert in the business, you know where you can look for it in the future.
We had no intention of bothering you with numbers, but they are just impressive. And that they are very successful in sports education is confirmed by the fact that the world-famous football player Ryan Giggs and athlete Colin Jackson were born here, among others.
Perhaps the most attractive part of Cardiff is Cardiff Bay, about 20 kilometers of coastal area that was once the port with the biggest coal exports in the world. Today, in a renovated and repurposed edition, it is residents’ favorite place for going out and relaxing.
To experience the beauties of this area, you need to walk along the coast and even a little further. The (previously mentioned) Wales Millennium Center is in the central part of Cardiff Bay. Looking at this attractive building, on the front of which is the sentence – In these stones, horizons sing – it is hard to understand the purpose of the building.
The only visible at first glance is all surrounded by the glass tourist information center on the ground floor. But this building hides a lot. Within the modern walls are a theater, cinema, art gallery, cafe, restaurant, hostel (4 stars!), and a branch of the well-known television company BBC. And for those who don’t know, the world-famous BBC series “Doctor Who” was filmed and produced in Cardiff.
Next to the Wales Millennium Center is a bus stop. There you can catch a tourist bus that will take you to the most important city sights. The tour lasts about an hour. In front of the center towards the coast stretches Roald Dahl Plass. It is a square where various events and festivals are held, such as the International Food and Beverage Festival (which was just in preparation during our stay in Cardiff), carnival, and similar.
From the central part of Cardiff Bay, you can explore the eastern or western part of the coast. The east part is more peaceful and serves as a promenade. You will first come across the Senedd (the Senate) – the National Assembly for Wales, officially opened in 2006 by Queen Elizabeth II. Architect Richard Rogers is responsible for the design of the building, which is optimized to be energy-efficient and sustainable using renewable technologies.
The building is also open to the public, but due to the high-security measures for entry and sightseeing, you will have to pass controls like those at airports. It is understandable since the significant people from the political top meet there. Nearby is the Norwegian Church, one of the most distinctive buildings in Cardiff, and offers a rich events program. A Norwegian bar with a small terrace has also found its place within it.
If you continue further and cross the bridge, you will find yourself on the green part of the coast (once industrial), the one intended for a healthy life. There, people ride bikes, roll, run, or walk.
While walking along the trail, you will come across a part of the green area where Adidas, the official partner for sportswear at the London 2012 Olympic Games, made a small fitness center. You can train on the equipment for free and in the open air. Unlike what we see in our public spaces, everything here is in its place, neat and functional.
If this walk and exercise have not yet exhausted you, you can continue your walk towards the dams and canals that let boats and yachts into this interesting (closed) Cardiff Bay. This area is called Cardiff Bay Barrage.
Before the installation of the dams, the current bay was muddy soil. After their settings, a freshwater lake was created, which helped the regeneration and revitalization of this area.
There is even a separate cascade passage through which fish can pass through the dam without hindrance. Interestingly, at a short distance of about 100 meters, have been built three drawbridges, which, depending on the needs, arise independently. Passing the dam, you will find the Penarth Marina, which houses smaller or larger yachts. Near the marina, you can enjoy a somewhat more exclusive (and newer) resort with beautifully landscaped private cottages and parks. If you think the sea here is blue, you are mistaken.
Due to the mouth of the Taff River and the generally muddy seabed near Cardiff, the sea is a kind of blue-brown color and looks quite dirty. That is the only thing that disappointed us since we come from one of the cleanest seas. For information to those who want to visit Cardiff, near the marina, or Cardiff docks on the River Ely, we found a large grocery store with opening hours up to midnight, while all other grocery stores close no later than 7 p.m., or only some at 8 p.m. Walking around the bay, you will also enjoy the view of the sailboats, which give it a particular liveliness with their colorful sails.
After an exhausting walk, hungry and thirsty, we return to the beginning and are ready to visit the west side of Cardiff Bay. This area is filled with pubs, restaurants, fast food, and patisseries. There are alleys with several fast-food and diner restaurants next to each other, so the only smell you can feel in the air is food. Thanks to that, we were not surprised by the fact that it seems 50% of the people you meet on the streets belong to the obese group.
In general, there is a variety of food from all over the world, but what is specific is that all the food is quite sharp and spicy, and onions are a must-have addition. As we are not used to spicy food, we decided to find salvation in an Italian restaurant, where we expected a lighter, Mediterranean one on the menu. But this restaurant was no exception. The dishes were full of onions, garlic, and various spicy sauces
If you are used to going to restaurants late at night, you won’t have a chance to do so here. Although some restaurants have opening hours until midnight, they usually close between 10 p.m. and 11 p.m. Pubs, which offer food and drinks, work a little longer but close the kitchen earlier.
You can walk through this part of the coast in the morning, when it is also very lively, and go for cake, tea, or coffee. As for coffee, the offer is diverse, and it is hard to decide which one to drink: plain coffee, cafe latte, macchiato, cappuccino, and on request with various toppings. Although we are not coffee lovers, we wanted to try it. The decision finally fell on a cappuccino with chocolate. But the coffee was typically English, too weak and watery. The cappuccino with lots of foam, creamy flavor, and chocolate, no trace!
A special place where you will forget the strange taste of coffee and the elapsed time is undoubtedly the Techniquest. It is a scientific research center located in Cardiff Bay, not far from the mentioned pubs. Techniquest was founded in 1986 and is a suitable destination for the whole family. The ticket price for an adult is £7 and for children from 4 to 16 years £5.
The center houses an interactive exhibition space, a science theater, a planetarium, and a laboratory. The idea was to bring science closer to the people across Wales. There, you will be able to get acquainted with the laws of physics, the perception of the world around us, the action of energy, power, light, sound, and much more.
If you are looking for an exciting nightlife experience, especially on weekends, the city center is the place to be. The bustling streets of St. Mary Street, Greyfriars Road, Charles Street, and Churchill Way are home to some of the most popular clubs and bars in the area. And right in the heart of it all is St. David’s, a large shopping mall that has been divided into two buildings.
But that’s not all. St. David’s is connected to the John Lewis shopping center, which offers a wide range of shops to suit every taste and budget. Just be prepared for a lot of walking, as the center covers a large area. It’s a real paradise for all you shopaholics out there.
Right next to the center is a large parking building on several levels. An hour of parking will cost you about £2, which is a little compared to the prices of most other nearby city parking lots, where you will need to set aside up to £5 in an hour.
Since this is a pretty large amount of (unnecessarily) spent money in just an hour, we advise you, if you want to visit the city center, to park the vehicle inside the parking lot of the shopping center and treat yourself to the rest of the money in one of the nearby pubs. Or even better, go shopping and sightseeing in the city by bus.
The city center is attractive as it intertwines old historic buildings with new, modern glass buildings. There is much to arouse your interest at a striking distance, such as a market, theater, cinema, and city library. We placed special emphasis on the library, as it was the only place we used the WiFi internet connection during our stay in Cardiff. Also, they provide you with half an hour of internet access on their computers, and if you need to print something, the price is 20 cents per printed page. In the search for the Internet, we found many available networks, especially in cafes (emphasizing free WiFi for visitors), but each attempt to connect failed.
After a short research, we discovered that unlike us in Croatia, they have no habit of surfing in cafes, so their wireless networks are often locked and without publicly available passwords. Walking through the center, in addition to attractive buildings, you will also come across numerous distinct and different people, from religions to skin colors. Cardiff is a cosmopolitan city with more than 100 ethnic communities, so walking the streets through a colorful mass, you will almost forget that you are actually in the UK.
In the western part of the city center, along the Taff River, you can find the impressive Millennium Stadium, which has a seating capacity of up to 60,000 spectators. Apart from hosting world-famous football and rugby matches, the stadium is also the venue for many other events. In June, for instance, it hosted an Elton John concert featuring our world-renowned cello duo Hauser and Šulić. If you head a bit north of the stadium, you will arrive where Cardiff’s history began in 55 AD. The Romans founded a fortress here, and you can still see the original walls at Cardiff Castle. It will take about two hours to visit the castle, and an adult ticket costs £11. You will have costumed guides who will take you through the castle, show you where Roman soldiers slept, and where noble knights held trials. They will show you the museum, and talk about the history and origins of the city. Once the tour is over, you can relax on the cafe terrace or the lawn.
All those who live or work in Cardiff can apply for a “key” to Cardiff Castle’s ticket office. This key enables them to enter the castle without charge and also grants them access to specific special events. Towards the east of the green parks lies the city’s neighborhoods of Cathays and Roath, featuring typical old English houses in a row. At first glance, these parts of the city seem a bit neglected as some of the homes require renovation. However, these areas are exclusively intended for student rentals as they are close to the university.
If you’re looking for an easy way to get around the city and its surroundings, renting a car with navigation can be a great option. However, if you decide to use public transport, the bus drives often and are efficient. LCD screens at each station display the remaining time until the next bus arrives and the line it’s on. And watching them, we’ve noticed that the buses are always on time.
A one-way ticket for an adult is £ 1.50, but if you intend to use multiple lines, we advise you to buy a day ticket for £ 3. If you have any questions or concerns, you can check out their official website (www.cardiffbus.com), where you will find everything from a map of bus routes, prices, various news, and even some interesting historical facts about public transport in Cardiff.
In Cardiff, you can have fun for days (three days is not enough). If you have time to spare, consider visiting the quiet but well-kept town of Caerphilly. This town is located just a 10-minute drive north of Cardiff and is home to a well-preserved medieval castle. This one is the largest in Wales and the second largest in the UK.
The castle was constructed between 1268 and 1271 by Gilbert Red de Clare, a Welsh prince with Norman ancestry. Its grandeur is awe-inspiring, and the canals around it, ponds, ducks, and swans will transport you back in time. The natural surroundings of the castle make it an ideal place for relaxation.
Castles always come with their own set of legends, and Caerphilly Castle is no exception. According to legend, the palace is haunted by the spirit of The Green Lady, who is said to be the ghost of Princess Alice. Princess Alice and her husband, Lord de Clare, lived in the castle. As Lord de Clare was often absent due to the numerous battles he fought, the princess felt very lonely.
So, on one occasion, the princess fell in love with the Welsh prince Tweg Teg, who also reciprocated her feelings. However, when Tweg confided in a priest about their love he betrayed him and told Lord de Clare. In response, Lord de Clare sent Alice away to France. Tweg took revenge on the priest for the betrayal, and these two young never met again. The story says that Princess Alice returned to the castle after she died in an eternal search for her lost love.
After everything we have seen, it is not surprising that Cardiff, although it does not have a crystal clear sea like Croatia, attracts about 12 million visitors a year. Its inhabitants themselves consider it one of the best places to live and work in Europe. So let us finish the story in the Welsh spirit, hoping to visit this beautiful area again. Diolch! Hwyl fawr! – Thank you! Goodbye!
TEXT – Robert Blašković & Vesna Džuverović
PHOTO – Robert Blašković
